Le Tour Eiffel et La Cathedrale De Notre Dame

'It was the best of times, it was the worst of times,' wrote Mr. Dickens, thinking of revolutionary France. I might as well trivialise this in a simple tourist blog... today was a very mixed day, indeed.

Time to tick off the Eiffel tower, we thought. Symbol of Paris and all that. We decided to walk there today, and that was quite interesting, if one avoided all the dog poo and held one's breath past the cigarette smokers. (Everyone still smokes like chimneys in Paris. I guess they haven't heard of lung cancer here.) Even though we got there early, there was a queue to get in. Used to it after Disneyland, we lined up without complaint. We had very warm clothes on today at least, but the north wind was bitter. Why didn't I bring my gloves! Many Morrocan peddlars (male)walked up and down the line, trying to sell small models of the tower. We pretended deep conversation with each other to ignore them. However, I got cornered by a gypsy woman. I was unprepared for this, so when a female voice said, "Do you speak English?", I naturally turned with a smile - because I am always asked for directions. But this woman was after money, and it was very hard to get rid of her, hemmed as I was in the queue.

Anyway, we finally got in. It was so windy, we were not allowed to the very top, which was fine by everyone except Jack. Annie was really very unnerved by the height. We had some hot chocolate to revive us a little, and took some pictures. It was a terrific view, and the whole tower really is a magnificent monument. There was an exhibition of its history, and even a garden on the first floor. I'm afraid we didn't appreciate it as we ought, however, and we did not spend too long up there. We caught the metro back, and had a good rest in the afternoon.

In the early evening, we ventured out again. We thought we would have a look at Notre Dame. The wind had died down, and it really looked like Spring again. We caught the metro to the central island that used to enclose all of ancient Paris, and had a little walk around before going to the cathedral. We passed the flower markets and several interesting shops.

The bells were ringing as we approached Notre Dame. No Quasimodo in sight, however. There was a queue, but it was moving quickly - (the bell tower was closed) - so we ventured a look inside. We looked at the carvings around the doors first.

It was dark inside; not like Wells at all. This was gothic in every sense of the word. Proper arches of the pointy sort ( in Wells they had tried chipping their roundy arches to get this new look). At least it was completely intact - no Reformation zealots had gone around defacing the churches and statues. I don't think the French Revolutionaries were exactly pro-religion, but at least they honoured the artists and artisans who created things of beauty, no matter what the context. Thus the Louvre and Versailles are still intact, despite their connections with the aristocracy.

Anyway, stained glass and statues, all very impressive. To top everything off, a Benedictine service (I think -Wayne's label) started, with incense and a cantor with a beautiful tenor voice. It was lovely. We went out well pleased, passing into a quiet garden around the east side of the building.

So we admired the flying buttresses, the intricately carved tower and of course, the famous gargoyles. These were everywhere, and seemed to serve as water spouts off the down pipes as much as anything.

We were well pleased, and decided to walk back. This was easy, simply following the Seine back west, before turning past the Louvre. Lots of people were enjoying the evening, lolling about the lawns. (There must be a poem in that somewhere...'lolling on the lawns of the Louvre, a leisurely life I lead...')

Wayne whipped up some lovely lamb chops, with which the big people enjoyed a bottle of Bordeaux. Tres bon!