Saturday 24 July 2010

July 24: Zurich to Rome

We got an early start again today, stopping at a supermarket for fruit and yoghurt for breakfast, some snacks and bread and cheese for later on. (The photo is nearby the station, near the river.) Wayne and I had some coffee at the station, and (keeping the plastic spoons for the yoghurt) we boarded our train for Milan.

It was misty and moist. Off we set, around lakes and mountains. Clouds shrouded the tops, and belted the middles. "Have you ever touched a cloud?" asked Eleanor, as we wound our way ever upwards. Streams rushed past, a milky blue. We dashed in and out of tunnels.

The drops to the side grew deeper.

After a particularly long tunnel, we came out and all the signs were in Italian. The weather dried and brightened. Grape vines grew in improbable vertical mountain fields. I saw a yard of grey pigs. We saw Lake Lagerno, which looked more holiday-ish than the damp Swiss one, in a jet-ski sort of way.

Wayne's note: Classic car spotting #1 - Jack and I enjoyed seeing a red Ferrari F430 screaming along the highway next to Lake Lugano. It kept pace with the train for a bit! - Sparkly lake, green hills, windy roads, red Ferrari...very Italian.

We came into Milan. Not unlike coming into Sydney Central, really, with bright light and many tracks. The station itself was something again. It was an architectural masterpiece, and huge. We exchanged our receipt for a ticket, and chewed our way through the very substantial Swiss bread, and yummy Swiss cheese.

Then onto another train, off to Rome. Now we were onto the plains - but with mountains visible behind them. Otherwise, it was like being in the Riverina. Wayne felt a great recognition and lightening of spirits. Even the Italian fellow travellers felt so familiar from Queanbeyan and especially Leeton.

Some things were different. Farms built into quadrangles. Old buildings with roofs the texture of Rivita biscuits. Some unfamiliar trees. All the land was put to good use: if England is a garden, Italy is a vege patch. No strands of gum trees and woody patches out on the plains. I suddenly saw myself as an Italian coming to Australia, and tutting at the 'wasted' land. Then I thought of Don Camillo, and wondered if the River Po was nearby.

Then we reached the hills - and woods. All 'classical'. I imagined Diana and hounds... nymphs and shepherds...

And so to Rome. First impression: huge, terracotta-like buildings baking in the sun, crumbly, no green anywhere in the inner city. We walked to our apartment on the Via Del Corso... bag wheels bumping over the cobblestones. Narrow streets; looming (although impressive) architecture.

After about 25 minutes we reached our apartment. Like the one we had in Paris, it is very inner city. It is about a stones throw from the Piazza Venezia, a gleaming white monolith with statues adorning. The apartment itself had vast high ceilings, yellow walls, terracotta tiles and - thankfully- air conditioning. There was a vast bathroom, but no bath. There was a bidet, which we actually used to wash hot, tired feet!

We went to eat at a little 'ristorante' in what I would call an alley in Australia. Somehow it works here. Thin, lovely pizzas. (The waiter took this photo). We watched all the 'beautiful people' walk past. Then, a step away to the Trevi Fountain, (here pictured, but very crowded.)

Wayne's note: Classic car spotting #2- An orange Lambourghini Murchielago was parked on one of the narrow lanes up to the Trevi Fountain. It had a crowd of about 20 tourists around it all taking photos. Some of the bolder youngsters were setting up photos pretending they were hopping into the car. We wondered if the owner was nearby thinking 'get your hands off my paintwork'. Didn't think much of the orange colour...but I'll have one in black!

There was a little grocery shop that we bought some breakfast things at. Then 'home' for a wash and a good sleep.

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